Caring for Your New Citrus Trees: What Every Phoenix Homeowner Needs to Know

One of the best-kept secrets about Arizona is that we grow absolutely phenomenal citrus. I'm talking sweet, juicy tangelos that rival anything coming out of California, Meyer lemons that'll make your mouth water, and grapefruits so juicy and flavorful you'll wonder why you ever bought them at the grocery store. We've got the perfect conditions for Valencia and Navel oranges, various mandarins and tangerines, several lemon varieties, and yes, even limes if you're careful with placement.

Just last weekend I spent the good part of the afternoon picking limes, tangelos, grapefruit, oranges, and lemons with my out-of-town family. They were absolutely in awe at both the size and amazing flavor of the fruit. Coming from a colder state up north, they just couldn't believe how many different varieties of citrus grow so well in Arizona. I think my son-in-law ate at least 5 tangelos while he was supposed to be picking and at least an orange or two on top of that! My daughter would have made lemonaid right there on the spot if I'd given her some sugar and a pitcher.

Sometimes I forget that we Arizonans can take our amazing citrus for granted because it is just so plentiful here. But for my clients moving to Arizona from colder states, having unlimited access to their own freshly grown oranges, lemons, or gratefruit this time of year can be a dream come true!

With that in mind, I think it's vital that homeowners who do want to grow their own citrus do a little homework. Afterall, the juicy lemons or oranges don't get to be the size of grapefruit by accident! Nothing frustrates me more than watching a beautiful new citrus tree struggle because someone got a little too eager with the fertilizer or didn't understand the need for extra deep watering during certain times of the year.

Over the years, I've installed hundreds of citrus trees throughout Gilbert, Chandler, and the rest of the East Valley, and I've learned that these Arizona beauties need a specific kind of TLC, especially in those critical first couple years. Let me walk you through what actually works here in the Phoenix metro area, because trust me, what your cousin does with their lemon tree in California isn't going to cut it in our 115° summers.

Image edited with Ai

The First Rule: Please Put Down That Fertilizer!

Here's where most people mess up right out of the gate. You just spent good money on a gorgeous citrus tree, you're excited, and you want to give it everything it needs to thrive. So naturally, you think fertilizer is the answer, right?

Wrong.

Your newly planted citrus tree is going through some serious shock. It's adjusting to new soil, a new location, and trying to establish its root system in our challenging desert environment. The last thing it needs is a bunch of nitrogen pushing it to grow before it's ready. I've seen homeowners actually burn their trees by fertilizing too early, and it's heartbreaking because it's completely preventable.

Now, there is one exception to this rule. When we're installing citrus trees for our clients, one product our citrus nurseries recommend is called Agriform tablets. These are compressed slow-release fertilizer tablets that you can add into the last four inches of backfill. They're gentle enough that they won't shock the tree, and they release nutrients slowly over time as the roots are actually ready to use them. But that's it. No liquid fertilizers, no granular stuff, nothing else for that entire first year.

Year Two and Beyond: The Feeding Schedule That Works

Once your tree has made it through that first year and you can see it's established (new growth, looking healthy, roots spreading out), then we can talk about a proper feeding schedule. And if you've read any of my other blog posts, you know that in Arizona, timing is everything.

I recommend fertilizing three times a year: March, June, and September. Use a blended citrus food—you're looking for something like 16-8-4 or 16-8-2. Those numbers matter because citrus needs more nitrogen (the first number) than phosphorus and potassium, but not so much that you're forcing excessive growth during our brutal summers.

March gets the tree ready for that spring growth spurt. June gives it a boost to handle summer stress. And September helps it recover and prepare for fruiting season. Miss these windows, and you're either wasting fertilizer or missing the opportunity to support your tree when it actually needs it.

That Weird Wrap Isn't Trash—Leave It Alone!

Okay, this one drives me crazy because it confuses new citrus owners all the time. People see burlap or cardboard wrapped around their citrus tree trunk and think, "Well, that looks ugly, Oasis Green must have missed it. I should take that off."

Please don't.

That wrap is there for one reason: sunburn protection. Yes, trees can get sunburned, and in Phoenix they absolutely will if you don't protect them. Our intense UV radiation will literally cook the bark on the south and west sides of young tree trunks, causing permanent damage that can kill the tree or at least severely stunt its growth.

Eventually the lower branches will grow down far enough to provide natural shade for the trunk. This can take a couple of years and so until then, keep that wrap intact. I know it's not the prettiest thing in the world, but it's doing an important job.

Now, if you've got a larger, more established tree that didn't come with wrap, you can paint the trunk with diluted white latex paint up to about four feet high. This reflects that intense Arizona sun and does the same protective job. Just make sure you're using regular white latex paint diluted 50/50 with water—not oil-based, not any fancy colors.

Don't Get Trim-Happy

Here's something that surprises people: resist the urge to trim up those lower branches to create that perfect, clean trunk look you see in magazines. I get it, we all want that manicured appearance, but citrus trees produce their best fruit on the lower half of the tree.

Every time I see someone who's pruned their citrus into a lollipop shape, I know they're sacrificing fruit production for aesthetics. And honestly, those lower branches serve double duty—they produce great fruit AND they protect that trunk from sun damage once they're mature enough.

Speaking from personal experience, I can tell you that you'll regret those over zealous tree prunings once the winter fruit start to ripen and you realize you don't have much left on the bottom branches. It took my orange tree several years to recover from an overly-excited maintenance tech who thought he was helping my trees look better.

Light pruning throughout the year is fine if you need to remove dead wood or crossing branches. But save any major pruning for early spring or fall when the tree isn't actively trying to fruit or dealing with extreme temperatures. And again, watch those bottom branches.

Watering: The Make-or-Break Factor

I could write an entire article just on watering citrus trees in Arizona (and maybe I will), but here's the condensed version: just like your grass or plants need an adaptive watering schedule, so too do your citrus trees. That means their watering schedule (timing and frequency) needs to change with the seasons.

In summer, young citrus trees need deep watering every 3-4 days. And when I say deep, I mean you're trying to saturate the root zone to at least 3 feet. Shallow, frequent watering creates shallow roots, which means a tree that can't handle the heat and won't be drought-tolerant as it matures.

Come winter, you'll cut way back—maybe once every 10-14 days depending on rainfall. During this time the tree is dormant or semi-dormant, and cooler temperatures mean less evaporation. Overwatering in winter is actually one of the biggest killers of citrus trees here because it can lead to root rot. The key is to water less often, but longer.

Spring and fall are transition periods where you'll adjust based on temperatures and how quickly the soil is drying out. Stick your finger in the soil—if it's dry 2-3 inches down, it's time to water.

One more important thing to note: citrus roots don’t work like people assume and watering at the trunk actually trains the tree to be weaker, less productive, and more disease-prone. Watering at the trunk only can cause the roots to stay clustered and shallow while wide watering more closely mimics nature and can encourage roots to spread outward. This helps create a larger "hydration reservoir" and can directly affect the quality of the fruit.

Summer:  Deep soak every 3–4 days (young trees), wider than deep

Winter:  10–14 days depending on temps and rain

Spring/Fall:  Adjust gradually; check moisture below surface

One question I get asked is what will happen if the citrus trees are just watered on the same schedule as everything else in a yard? If citrus trees are just watered like shade trees, will they still produce fruit?

The answer is yes however, the quality and quantity will be sub-optimal. This may mean not just a smaller yield but fruite with a thicker peel and drier flesh. There is a direct correlation between good watering and large, juicy, high-quality fruit.

Shallow, frequent watering Small, dry, thick peel

Infrequent drought stress Fruit drop, low yield

Drought → heavy soak Split fruit

Consistent deep watering Large, juicy, sweet fruit

Pest Problems and Frost Protection

Caring for your new citrus trees will also require you to be on the look out for possible pest issues. Even with the best care, you might run into Aphids, scale, and spider mites who love citrus trees. If you spot something abnormal, address it quickly but carefully. I recommend starting with the least toxic option—sometimes a strong spray with the hose is enough to knock aphids off. For more persistent problems, horticultural oils or insecticidal soaps work well and won't harm beneficial insects.

And for all my clients who are newer to Arizona, yes we do get frost in the Phoenix metro area. Not often, and not severe compared to other places, but enough to damage citrus if you're not paying attention. When frost is forecasted (usually January or February), cover your tree with frost cloth or even old bedsheets. Water the soil thoroughly the day before a freeze—moist soil retains heat better than dry soil. Remove the covering once temperatures rise above freezing.

Keep the Animals Away

This might seem obvious, but I've seen enough damage that I need to mention it: keep dogs, rabbits, and any hoofed animals away from your citrus trees, especially young ones. Dogs will pee on the trunk which damages the bark, rabbits will chew on anything they can reach, and goats or sheep will absolutely destroy a young tree if given the chance.

A simple barrier around the tree for the first few years can save you a lot of heartache. Your local nursery will carry these, as well as several online suppliers.

Image created with Ai

The Two-Year Reality Check

Here's the thing nobody wants to hear but I think it's important that my clients know: your citrus tree needs a solid 1-2 years to fully recover from being transplanted. During this time, it's putting all its energy into establishing roots and adjusting to its new home.

You might not see a ton of growth. You might not get much fruit—or any fruit—that first year. That's completely normal and actually healthy. I remember my first citrus tree planted at my current home took over 3 years to produce it's first fruit and even then, it was only a single orange the first year. It wasn't until at least year five that I got enough fruit to pick and share.

Those first few years the tree is building a foundation for years of production ahead. Trying to push it too hard with excessive fertilizer or improper care during this period can actually set it back even further. Be patient, monitor your watering schedule as seasons change, stick to that March-June-September feeding routine after the first year, and give it time.

Why Citrus is Worth the Effort

Look, I'll level with you—citrus trees aren't necessarily the easiest thing to grow in Arizona. They need attention, they have specific requirements, and you can't just plant them and forget them like you might with a palo verde or mesquite.

But man, is it worth it.

There's something incredibly satisfying about walking out to your backyard on a winter morning and picking fresh oranges, lemons, or grapefruit for breakfast. The scent of citrus blossoms in spring is unbeatable. And once your trees are established (usually by year three or four), they're actually pretty low-maintenance and will produce for decades.

Plus, property values in the East Valley—especially in Gilbert, Chandler, and Queen Creek—have shown that mature, fruit-producing citrus trees can actually be a selling point. Buyers want that authentic Arizona living experience, and nothing says that quite like a yard full of healthy oranges, lemons, grapefruit or limes.

Ready to Add New Citrus to Your Landscape?

Whether you're looking to add a few citrus trees to an existing landscape or you're planning a complete outdoor renovation that includes an edible garden area, we'd love to help. We work with quality suppliers like Greenfield Citrus Nursery to source healthy, well-established trees, and we know exactly how to plant and care for them in our specific climate.

If you're in the Phoenix metro area—from Scottsdale to Gilbert, Mesa to San Tan Valley- reach out to schedule a free consultation. We'll assess your property, talk about which citrus varieties will thrive in your specific microclimate, and create a plan that sets you up for success.

Click below to get started, or give us a call. Let's get you growing.

Yes, I'd Love to Learn More About Adding Citrus to My Outdoor Space!